From the dermatologist's office: Dr Alice Martin on the effects of collagen

Author: Dr Alice Martin
Medical Doctor & Co-Founder of dermanostic

Collagen and Skin Health – What the Science Says

As a doctor with clinical experience across two university dermatology departments – and founder of a digital dermatology service – I see every day just how much lifestyle, skincare, and micronutrients can influence skin health. In particular, patients dealing with premature ageing, barrier dysfunction, or a dull complexion are increasingly interested in nutrients that support skin from the inside out – and collagen is firmly in focus.

What is Collagen?

Collagen is the most abundant structural protein in the human body. It gives strength and elasticity to skin, bones, connective tissue, and joints. In the skin, it’s primarily Type I collagen that supports deeper layers and helps maintain firmness. From around the age of 25, our natural collagen production declines by roughly 1% per year – often showing up as fine lines, reduced elasticity or a weakened skin barrier.

What Does the Science Say?

When we consume collagen through diet or supplementation, it’s first broken down in the digestive system into peptides (short protein chains) and amino acids (the building blocks of protein). Some peptides – especially glycine-proline-hydroxyproline combinations – remain intact long enough to be absorbed through the gut. Research suggests they can stimulate fibroblasts, the skin’s collagen-producing cells. So rather than directly adding collagen to the skin, these peptides help boost the body’s own collagen production.

A placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical study in the UK explored the effects of a collagen product on 60 healthy women aged 35–55 over 12 weeks. Participants took 10 grams of hydrolysed Type I collagen daily.

The results were impressive:

• Skin hydration increased by an average of 76%

• Skin elasticity improved by 13%

• Fine lines and wrinkles reduced by 18%

• Redness reduced by 43%

• Breakdown of the body’s own collagen decreased by 31%

These outcomes were measured using scientific tools such as the Corneometer (for hydration), Cutometer (for elasticity), and Vivascope (to assess skin structure). The combination of objective data and participant feedback paints a clear picture: collagen supplementation can produce measurable skin benefits.

What About Hair and Nails?

While collagen isn’t a major structural component of hair or nails (that role belongs to keratin), users often report noticeable improvements. In the same study, 77% of participants said their hair felt less brittle, and 63% noticed faster nail growth. These effects could be linked to improved nutrient delivery, stronger skin around the hair follicles, or enhanced circulation.

My Takeaway

Collagen isn’t a miracle cure – but it can be a valuable part of a preventative skin health strategy. For best results, it should be hydrolysed (broken down into small peptides for better absorption), taken consistently over time, and sourced from high-quality materials. Transparency around sourcing and clinical studies also matters.

For me, Ancient + Brave combines scientific integrity with a mindful approach to wellness. I particularly value the fact that the brand invests in its own clinical research.

From a medical perspective, it’s encouraging to see brands supporting evidence-based wellbeing and helping shape the conversation around functional, lifestyle-focused medicine.
Because skin health starts not just on the surface – but beneath it.